A Review of Restaurant Reviews
Jake Joy asked:
Restaurant food critics can be a valuable tool when choosing an eatery. In March 2008 the entire restaurant review industry came under scrutiny from court case arising from a brutal but honest review of Belfastian pizzeria Goodfellas by the Irish News, the review which criticised the food, staff and atmosphere led to the restaurant being awarded £25,000 in libel damages. This decision went somewhat unnoticed by many, however its outcome could have changed review writing, opening the door for companies to take action when they feel they have been unfairly ‘done over’ by a review. However, upon appeal the case decision was overturned on the basis that the original jury was unfairly guided by the judge.
This case has brought to light many questions as to the relevance and validity of reviews; the main being that a review is a persons personal opinion it is not a qualified nor a mediated evaluation- it could be said that to curtail reviews would be to limit a persons freedom to speech, further to this, as unfairly as it is a review published is often tailored to the magazine and its readership expectations- the New York Times food critic reviewer is renowned for being tough yet is this their true opinions or do they go with the most fashionable option or what is expected? When in fact their favourite nosh secretly comes from the Hard Rock Café? Looking at reviewers who perhaps give out too good reviews; suspicion would lead me to think that opinions are swayed by advertisers and investors.
Reviewers should not be influenced by any external factors their job is to act as an independent ombudsman of sorts providing advice and guidance on where we should dine. From all the press coverage of the ‘Goodfellas case’ there seems to be a total disregard for the benefit readers got from the review, the words may have been excessive but the fact remained that the food was unsatisfactory according to the critic.
If you go online there is abundance of blogs that can give you a variety of restaurant reviews, online reviews are a useful tool for obtaining a perhaps more varied and honest review; the reasoning for this being that often bloggers are not swayed by advertisers nor limited by their readers demographics. Much like the newspapers and magazines, it will be one person who is writing the review but people can add to it, posting comments about their own experience with a restaurant. Once a restaurant review blog gains popularity and people are regularly leaving comments then it becomes a valuable resource for varied and honest opinions. As people are attending the restaurant socially rather than with the sole purpose of reviewing it the result will be different experience altogether and the retelling of their experience, for example taking their four children into a quiet bistro, may be of relevance to someone considering going with their own children. Therefore restaurant review blogs are very different to the reviews you read in the papers; and overall more useful.
Restaurant food critics can be a valuable tool when choosing an eatery. In March 2008 the entire restaurant review industry came under scrutiny from court case arising from a brutal but honest review of Belfastian pizzeria Goodfellas by the Irish News, the review which criticised the food, staff and atmosphere led to the restaurant being awarded £25,000 in libel damages. This decision went somewhat unnoticed by many, however its outcome could have changed review writing, opening the door for companies to take action when they feel they have been unfairly ‘done over’ by a review. However, upon appeal the case decision was overturned on the basis that the original jury was unfairly guided by the judge.
This case has brought to light many questions as to the relevance and validity of reviews; the main being that a review is a persons personal opinion it is not a qualified nor a mediated evaluation- it could be said that to curtail reviews would be to limit a persons freedom to speech, further to this, as unfairly as it is a review published is often tailored to the magazine and its readership expectations- the New York Times food critic reviewer is renowned for being tough yet is this their true opinions or do they go with the most fashionable option or what is expected? When in fact their favourite nosh secretly comes from the Hard Rock Café? Looking at reviewers who perhaps give out too good reviews; suspicion would lead me to think that opinions are swayed by advertisers and investors.
Reviewers should not be influenced by any external factors their job is to act as an independent ombudsman of sorts providing advice and guidance on where we should dine. From all the press coverage of the ‘Goodfellas case’ there seems to be a total disregard for the benefit readers got from the review, the words may have been excessive but the fact remained that the food was unsatisfactory according to the critic.
If you go online there is abundance of blogs that can give you a variety of restaurant reviews, online reviews are a useful tool for obtaining a perhaps more varied and honest review; the reasoning for this being that often bloggers are not swayed by advertisers nor limited by their readers demographics. Much like the newspapers and magazines, it will be one person who is writing the review but people can add to it, posting comments about their own experience with a restaurant. Once a restaurant review blog gains popularity and people are regularly leaving comments then it becomes a valuable resource for varied and honest opinions. As people are attending the restaurant socially rather than with the sole purpose of reviewing it the result will be different experience altogether and the retelling of their experience, for example taking their four children into a quiet bistro, may be of relevance to someone considering going with their own children. Therefore restaurant review blogs are very different to the reviews you read in the papers; and overall more useful.
12 World Class Restaurants to Visit in 2008
December 4, 2009 by admin
Filed under Food And Beverage
Timothy Rudon asked:
Food has through history played a role in the way the world functions. Kings and Emperors used to pride themselves on their kitchens and exotic food made by the world’s best chefs had the same value as treasures.
A glance into the two volume compilation “The Cambridge World History of Food” shows how mankind developed exotic tastes how spices were traded like gold, and more. The volumes are standard references world –wide for social scientists, economists, nutritionists, and gourmets. A website www.foodtimeline.org/ has a wonderful time line of food which shows that fish, egges, and mushrooms were eaten as early as before 17,000 BCE and that bread, beer, and soup was in the diet as far back as 10000 BCE.
The modern world too runs on its stomach and world wide restaurants compete to gain the status of “best restaurant.” If a restaurant is listed by S Pellegrino in its list of “ the world’s 50 Best Restaurants,” then its like wining an honor and prize. The list each year is complied by Nespresso World’s 50 Best Academy consisting of food writers, critics, publishers, and commentators from all over the world.
So if you are a gourmet and world traveler here are a few restaurants you may wish to try the 2007 list included:
1. El Bulli in Spain chosen as the World’s Best Restaurant in Europe.
2. The Fat Duck in UK which was the Chefs Choice.
3. Pierre Gagnaire in France.
4. The French Laundry in the US adjudged the Best in the Americas.
5. Tetsuya’s in Australia adjudged the best in Australasia.
6. Bras in France.
7. Mugaritz in Spain.
8. Le Louis XV in Monaco.
9. Per Se in the US.
10. Arzak in Spain.
11. El Celler deCan Roca in Spain.
12. Gamero Rosso in Italy.
It’s all about quality reaching new heights. Detailed information on the best restaurants in the world and past lists can be viewed at www.theworlds50best.com/index.html . Chefs and food critics and aficionados from all over the world congregate to London for the awards functions each year. In a global world more and more people are expanding their minds and trying out the cuisine of other cultures and nations.
The World Wide Web is replete with information on cuisine, cooking, wine, and dining choices and trends. So if you want to be trendy and know how to eat what, which wine to select, and more then open your mind to new experiences and educate yourself in every direction using the knowledge highway the internet has become.
Food has through history played a role in the way the world functions. Kings and Emperors used to pride themselves on their kitchens and exotic food made by the world’s best chefs had the same value as treasures.
A glance into the two volume compilation “The Cambridge World History of Food” shows how mankind developed exotic tastes how spices were traded like gold, and more. The volumes are standard references world –wide for social scientists, economists, nutritionists, and gourmets. A website www.foodtimeline.org/ has a wonderful time line of food which shows that fish, egges, and mushrooms were eaten as early as before 17,000 BCE and that bread, beer, and soup was in the diet as far back as 10000 BCE.
The modern world too runs on its stomach and world wide restaurants compete to gain the status of “best restaurant.” If a restaurant is listed by S Pellegrino in its list of “ the world’s 50 Best Restaurants,” then its like wining an honor and prize. The list each year is complied by Nespresso World’s 50 Best Academy consisting of food writers, critics, publishers, and commentators from all over the world.
So if you are a gourmet and world traveler here are a few restaurants you may wish to try the 2007 list included:
1. El Bulli in Spain chosen as the World’s Best Restaurant in Europe.
2. The Fat Duck in UK which was the Chefs Choice.
3. Pierre Gagnaire in France.
4. The French Laundry in the US adjudged the Best in the Americas.
5. Tetsuya’s in Australia adjudged the best in Australasia.
6. Bras in France.
7. Mugaritz in Spain.
8. Le Louis XV in Monaco.
9. Per Se in the US.
10. Arzak in Spain.
11. El Celler deCan Roca in Spain.
12. Gamero Rosso in Italy.
It’s all about quality reaching new heights. Detailed information on the best restaurants in the world and past lists can be viewed at www.theworlds50best.com/index.html . Chefs and food critics and aficionados from all over the world congregate to London for the awards functions each year. In a global world more and more people are expanding their minds and trying out the cuisine of other cultures and nations.
The World Wide Web is replete with information on cuisine, cooking, wine, and dining choices and trends. So if you want to be trendy and know how to eat what, which wine to select, and more then open your mind to new experiences and educate yourself in every direction using the knowledge highway the internet has become.
Finding the Best Adelaide Restaurants For Your Budget
Vikram Kumar asked:
Are you travelling to Adelaide, Australia? If so, you may be wondering what kinds of food will be available there. You are in luck, since Adelaide restaurants range from fine dining to fast food and you will find something to suit any taste or budget.
Fusion cuisine has become one of the largest movements in dining recently and Adelaide restaurants offer a wide range of dishes. Combining Asian cooking and ingredients with more western tastes, fusion cuisine can be a wonderful middle ground for food lovers and those who may be less adventurous. There are a number of amazing food guides that can help you find the style of dining that you want and will often give valuable information such as price and an idea of the menu choices.
Online restaurant reviews can also be a wonderful tool when selecting which Adelaide restaurants you would like to eat at. These can be great because they are usually written by people who have visited the restaurant and can be a wealth of information that may not make it into the published guides. They can also give updates on establishments which may be too new to make it into published guides. Keep in mind that when you are reading these reviews that you should take their advice as a guideline only. A restaurant may have improved or gone downhill since a review was written.
When you are looking for a place to eat in Adelaide Australia you should pay particular attention to any requirements such as dress code or the need to make a reservation. If you do not follow these guidelines you may find yourself disappointed if you are turned away at the door. Many of the popular restaurants may be heavily booked, especially during the tourist high season when there may be many more people trying for the same number of seats. If you are on holiday at certain times of the year it can also be good to know if the restaurant may be closed because of any national holidays and what their hours of operation will be since some may not be open for all meals.
Adelaide, Australia has a wide variety of native foods and wines to offer diners. From the world class vintages of the nearby Barossa valley to fresh seafood and amazing beef and lamb, Adelaide is a gourmand’s paradise. Adelaide restaurants offer cuisine from all around the world. There are a few areas in Adelaide Australia where many eateries are located. These include Hutt Street, Melbourne Street, O’Connell Street and Rundle Street. These areas also have a large number of bars and pubs as well. The Central Market also has restaurants located in it as well.
You may be a bit overwhelmed by the range of Adelaide restaurants that you have to choose from. Reviews can help you avoid surprises and find the eateries that suit you best. By knowing your budget and looking at restaurant guides you can find the best dining that Adelaide Australia has to offer.
Are you travelling to Adelaide, Australia? If so, you may be wondering what kinds of food will be available there. You are in luck, since Adelaide restaurants range from fine dining to fast food and you will find something to suit any taste or budget.
Fusion cuisine has become one of the largest movements in dining recently and Adelaide restaurants offer a wide range of dishes. Combining Asian cooking and ingredients with more western tastes, fusion cuisine can be a wonderful middle ground for food lovers and those who may be less adventurous. There are a number of amazing food guides that can help you find the style of dining that you want and will often give valuable information such as price and an idea of the menu choices.
Online restaurant reviews can also be a wonderful tool when selecting which Adelaide restaurants you would like to eat at. These can be great because they are usually written by people who have visited the restaurant and can be a wealth of information that may not make it into the published guides. They can also give updates on establishments which may be too new to make it into published guides. Keep in mind that when you are reading these reviews that you should take their advice as a guideline only. A restaurant may have improved or gone downhill since a review was written.
When you are looking for a place to eat in Adelaide Australia you should pay particular attention to any requirements such as dress code or the need to make a reservation. If you do not follow these guidelines you may find yourself disappointed if you are turned away at the door. Many of the popular restaurants may be heavily booked, especially during the tourist high season when there may be many more people trying for the same number of seats. If you are on holiday at certain times of the year it can also be good to know if the restaurant may be closed because of any national holidays and what their hours of operation will be since some may not be open for all meals.
Adelaide, Australia has a wide variety of native foods and wines to offer diners. From the world class vintages of the nearby Barossa valley to fresh seafood and amazing beef and lamb, Adelaide is a gourmand’s paradise. Adelaide restaurants offer cuisine from all around the world. There are a few areas in Adelaide Australia where many eateries are located. These include Hutt Street, Melbourne Street, O’Connell Street and Rundle Street. These areas also have a large number of bars and pubs as well. The Central Market also has restaurants located in it as well.
You may be a bit overwhelmed by the range of Adelaide restaurants that you have to choose from. Reviews can help you avoid surprises and find the eateries that suit you best. By knowing your budget and looking at restaurant guides you can find the best dining that Adelaide Australia has to offer.
Tunbridge Wells Restaurants
November 24, 2009 by admin
Filed under Restaurant Reviews
Rodney Munch asked:
ZAPATA
If you are looking for a restaurant in Tunbridge Wells, there are numerous options available to you to help you fill your belly and have a good time in the process.
Weather your favourite taste is Italian, Mexican, English, Indian, Chinese or even Polish you are sure to find a restaurant catering to your needs. I have outlined a few options below.
For lovers of Latin American cuisine, Zapata, next to Nevada Bob’s golf superstore on the pantiles should be your first port of call. This lively restaurant is the perfect base to start a Friday or Saturday night, offering all the Mexican staples from Burritos to Tacos and everything in between and around. Why not wash down the food with a Margarita or a Mexican beer while taking in the themed decor and ambient Music all served by the very attractive and friendly staff.
Being on the Pantiles also offers the advantage of it being only a few steps from a number of great watering holes for you to christen your newly lined stomach.
If you like a bit of entertainment in the form of live music while you eat then you should take a look at the Grey Lady. Right across the pantiles from Zapata, the Grey Lady can be reached in less than a minute.
The Grey Lady is an asset to live music in Tunbridge Wells hosting regular blues and jazz nights. The atmosphere here is a lot more relaxed than at Zapata and an ideal place for a romantic night out.
The menu at the grey lady is centred around Mediterranean cuisine, featuring dishes such as Coquilles de la Casa – Fresh seared King Scallops with Prawns in Garlic, White Wine & Parsley Sauce and Grilled Chicken Brochette – Chicken Fillet with Peppers & a Greek Salad with Tzatziki. All appearing alongside the , quote-unquote, standard dishes such as Pizza and Pasta.
For a more traditional English affair, take a look at Woods. Woods is another restaurant which benefits from being situated in the Pantiles. This timeless place looks right at home, and you wouldn’t blink if you came across it a couple of hundred years ago at the inception of the pantiles.
Located just opposite the band stand, Woods is the perfect base to soak up the entertainments on a hot summers day. Pull your chair up, order a drink and take in the music. What could be better?
Not only providing good food, Woods has an extended wine list featuring wine from wineries in England, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Germany and of course France among others.
I cannot recommend enough that you go out and try some of the many restaurants in Tunbridge Wells.
ZAPATA
If you are looking for a restaurant in Tunbridge Wells, there are numerous options available to you to help you fill your belly and have a good time in the process.
Weather your favourite taste is Italian, Mexican, English, Indian, Chinese or even Polish you are sure to find a restaurant catering to your needs. I have outlined a few options below.
For lovers of Latin American cuisine, Zapata, next to Nevada Bob’s golf superstore on the pantiles should be your first port of call. This lively restaurant is the perfect base to start a Friday or Saturday night, offering all the Mexican staples from Burritos to Tacos and everything in between and around. Why not wash down the food with a Margarita or a Mexican beer while taking in the themed decor and ambient Music all served by the very attractive and friendly staff.
Being on the Pantiles also offers the advantage of it being only a few steps from a number of great watering holes for you to christen your newly lined stomach.
If you like a bit of entertainment in the form of live music while you eat then you should take a look at the Grey Lady. Right across the pantiles from Zapata, the Grey Lady can be reached in less than a minute.
The Grey Lady is an asset to live music in Tunbridge Wells hosting regular blues and jazz nights. The atmosphere here is a lot more relaxed than at Zapata and an ideal place for a romantic night out.
The menu at the grey lady is centred around Mediterranean cuisine, featuring dishes such as Coquilles de la Casa – Fresh seared King Scallops with Prawns in Garlic, White Wine & Parsley Sauce and Grilled Chicken Brochette – Chicken Fillet with Peppers & a Greek Salad with Tzatziki. All appearing alongside the , quote-unquote, standard dishes such as Pizza and Pasta.
For a more traditional English affair, take a look at Woods. Woods is another restaurant which benefits from being situated in the Pantiles. This timeless place looks right at home, and you wouldn’t blink if you came across it a couple of hundred years ago at the inception of the pantiles.
Located just opposite the band stand, Woods is the perfect base to soak up the entertainments on a hot summers day. Pull your chair up, order a drink and take in the music. What could be better?
Not only providing good food, Woods has an extended wine list featuring wine from wineries in England, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Germany and of course France among others.
I cannot recommend enough that you go out and try some of the many restaurants in Tunbridge Wells.
Tips to Choosing a Restaurant When Vacationing
Amy E Nutt asked:
One of the most loved activities when on a vacation is dining at restaurants. Most people enjoy trying new food at the local cuisines. When on vacation, it can often be a bit of a chore to find the most popular and high-quality restaurants. Not every place has a high standard of restaurant health laws, so one has to make sure they do not eat somewhere and end up getting very ill. Not only would it be a miserable experience, but it would ruin the vacation. It is important to have a good idea of what type of restaurant you will be dining at before you actually sit down and order.
Below is a list of tips that will help you choose a quality restaurant on your next vacation:
1. The Hotel staff is usually made up of local residents so they can provide you with information about the best restaurants in the area. They will also know of the various types of restaurants such as Mexican, Italian-etc.
2. Hotels usually carry local tourist guide books that are filled with valuable information about restaurants. If they do not have a guidebook, check the local tourist bureau. Guidebooks will often contain restaurant reviews.
3. If you ask the locals in the area, they will know all of the best restaurants to eat. You can ask store staff, local bar staff, taxi driver-etc. They can also let you know about the costs and if it is a formal or informal restaurant.
4. You can also walk or drive around to find restaurants. Many restaurants post their menus in the front so you can browse to see if there is anything you like. Avoid restaurants with unattractive and unprofessional menus. If you are concerned about the cleanliness of the restaurant, check out the washrooms. If they are dirty, then that may be a reflection of the quality of the restaurant. If the restaurant has tables outside, walk near the tables and steal a peek at what people are eating. Do the customers look happy? Does their food look tempting? If the restaurant is full of tourists or quite expensive, then it will most likely cater to tourists. You should also note how many people are actually dining at the restaurant. If there are not that many people dining, you may want to keep looking.
5. You can also do some online research. There are many websites and blogs that contain information about restaurants. Some sites even post restaurant reviews. As well, some sites will have pictures of the inside of the restaurant.
6. When you enter a restaurant, look for grimy walls, dirty floors, and anything else that may appear unsanitary. As well, look at the wait staff’s uniforms. Are they clean and pressed?
When on vacation, people want to relax, take in the sights, and enjoy quality food. By taking the time to learn how to find a great restaurant, you will spend much less of your vacation wandering around looking for a good place to eat.
One of the most loved activities when on a vacation is dining at restaurants. Most people enjoy trying new food at the local cuisines. When on vacation, it can often be a bit of a chore to find the most popular and high-quality restaurants. Not every place has a high standard of restaurant health laws, so one has to make sure they do not eat somewhere and end up getting very ill. Not only would it be a miserable experience, but it would ruin the vacation. It is important to have a good idea of what type of restaurant you will be dining at before you actually sit down and order.
Below is a list of tips that will help you choose a quality restaurant on your next vacation:
1. The Hotel staff is usually made up of local residents so they can provide you with information about the best restaurants in the area. They will also know of the various types of restaurants such as Mexican, Italian-etc.
2. Hotels usually carry local tourist guide books that are filled with valuable information about restaurants. If they do not have a guidebook, check the local tourist bureau. Guidebooks will often contain restaurant reviews.
3. If you ask the locals in the area, they will know all of the best restaurants to eat. You can ask store staff, local bar staff, taxi driver-etc. They can also let you know about the costs and if it is a formal or informal restaurant.
4. You can also walk or drive around to find restaurants. Many restaurants post their menus in the front so you can browse to see if there is anything you like. Avoid restaurants with unattractive and unprofessional menus. If you are concerned about the cleanliness of the restaurant, check out the washrooms. If they are dirty, then that may be a reflection of the quality of the restaurant. If the restaurant has tables outside, walk near the tables and steal a peek at what people are eating. Do the customers look happy? Does their food look tempting? If the restaurant is full of tourists or quite expensive, then it will most likely cater to tourists. You should also note how many people are actually dining at the restaurant. If there are not that many people dining, you may want to keep looking.
5. You can also do some online research. There are many websites and blogs that contain information about restaurants. Some sites even post restaurant reviews. As well, some sites will have pictures of the inside of the restaurant.
6. When you enter a restaurant, look for grimy walls, dirty floors, and anything else that may appear unsanitary. As well, look at the wait staff’s uniforms. Are they clean and pressed?
When on vacation, people want to relax, take in the sights, and enjoy quality food. By taking the time to learn how to find a great restaurant, you will spend much less of your vacation wandering around looking for a good place to eat.
La Catrina de Alcalá: Oaxaca restaurant review
October 30, 2009 by admin
Filed under Restaurant Reviews
Alvin Starkman asked:
Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B.
La Catrina de Alcalá ranks amongst the city’s finest restaurants, rather unsual since most other restaurants within two blocks of the Oaxaca’s zócalo manage to get by with cafeteria-style atmosphere, mariachis and marimbas, and mediocre food. But owner / artist Rolando Rojas took the plunge, and the gamble has paid off: both quality Oaxacan, and unique continental fare in a tasteful courtyard setting, in the heart of the Centro Histórico.
The establishment is actually three businesses combined in a two-story piece of prime real estate, along Oaxaca’s famed pedestrian walkway, Macedonia Alcalá: an upper level boutique style hotel; an art gallery featuring the works of Rojas and several other respected local artists; and the adjoining eatery, managed by chef Juan Carlos Guzmán Toledo.
The experience begins with an attractive young woman clad in regional dress, smiling and welcoming at the restaurant’s entranceway, ushering you to your table. The focal point is a large, cantera stone fountain. Otherwise the décor is minimalist, white walls adorned with sparsely placed art and a series of gilt stars. Yet the ambiance somehow exudes comfort and warmth, perhaps facilitated by the lone strumming troubadour, half hidden behind a strategically placed cluster of plants.
Waiters are eager to show off their English proficiency, whether needed or not, as bowls of salsa, one smoky tomato-based, and the other with a hint of shrimp are placed alongside totopos (crispy, toasted corn-flour crackers).
The restaurant prides itself in its use of seasonal, locally produced ingredients, and boasts that when you patronize La Catrina you’re helping local economies. Vegetarian dishes, “slow food,” and plates from the Isthmus region of the state are noted. However, occasionally the odd import sneaks in as a special, such as kobe beef.
The menu otherwise covers all the bases: soups, salads and appetizers; meat, poultry and pasta; fish and seafood, and regional specialties such as a selection of three Oaxacan moles. But even those dishes in the continental genre are often presented with local flare.
Particularly noteworthy as starters are the poblano pepper soup with mushrooms, squash blossom and bacon, and hierba santa leaves stuffed with Oaxacan string and goat cheeses in a green tomato and mecco chili sauce. The salads range from the traditional to the unique (jícama, sunflower seeds, toasted almonds, wheat quenelle, fried hibiscus flowers and fresh cheese with hibiscus dressing). The staff is extremely accommodating in terms of sensitivity to those with dietary restrictions or a purist palate. For example, at our most recent evening out, chef Juan Carlos was happy to comply with my wife’s request for a simple small green salad.
.
The seared tuna with mango and habanero sauce, alongside white beans in coconut milk is prepared to perfection, with the flavor of each ingredient easily discernable. The sliced duck and fresh fig is served on a bed of julienne of zucchini “spaghetti,” smothered with a dark purée of honey-fig. And beef lovers are able to experiment with the non-traditional, be it a rib eye served with guacamole and creamy garlic-stuffed chili, or go for something more Oaxacan, steak marinated with mezcal, pineapple and apple, served with garlic purée stuffed chilito.
All of the after-dinner non-alcoholic hot beverages are available high-test, or decaffeinated, so extend your evening without concern, perhaps concluding with a martini glass brimming with a selection of three tropical fruit sorbets.
Also noteworthy: La Catrina has developed a dedicated breakfast and lunch crowd, often comprised of predominantly local residents. Coffee or tea is suggested upon arrival, with warm, freshly baked breads and an assortment of sweet rolls for the asking. Dishes include an assortment of eggs and omelets, traditional Oaxacan breakfast fare such as enchiladas, tamales, chilaquiles and typical Oaxacan grilled meats with garnishes, both unique and traditional salads, and sandwiches featuring spinach, goat cheese, pecan, apple, basil, mushroom and squash blossom.
La Catrina de Alcalá (www.casacatrina.com.mx). M. Alcalá 102, a couple of blocks north of the zócalo. Oaxacan cuisine with an international flare. Locals and tourists.
Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B.
La Catrina de Alcalá ranks amongst the city’s finest restaurants, rather unsual since most other restaurants within two blocks of the Oaxaca’s zócalo manage to get by with cafeteria-style atmosphere, mariachis and marimbas, and mediocre food. But owner / artist Rolando Rojas took the plunge, and the gamble has paid off: both quality Oaxacan, and unique continental fare in a tasteful courtyard setting, in the heart of the Centro Histórico.
The establishment is actually three businesses combined in a two-story piece of prime real estate, along Oaxaca’s famed pedestrian walkway, Macedonia Alcalá: an upper level boutique style hotel; an art gallery featuring the works of Rojas and several other respected local artists; and the adjoining eatery, managed by chef Juan Carlos Guzmán Toledo.
The experience begins with an attractive young woman clad in regional dress, smiling and welcoming at the restaurant’s entranceway, ushering you to your table. The focal point is a large, cantera stone fountain. Otherwise the décor is minimalist, white walls adorned with sparsely placed art and a series of gilt stars. Yet the ambiance somehow exudes comfort and warmth, perhaps facilitated by the lone strumming troubadour, half hidden behind a strategically placed cluster of plants.
Waiters are eager to show off their English proficiency, whether needed or not, as bowls of salsa, one smoky tomato-based, and the other with a hint of shrimp are placed alongside totopos (crispy, toasted corn-flour crackers).
The restaurant prides itself in its use of seasonal, locally produced ingredients, and boasts that when you patronize La Catrina you’re helping local economies. Vegetarian dishes, “slow food,” and plates from the Isthmus region of the state are noted. However, occasionally the odd import sneaks in as a special, such as kobe beef.
The menu otherwise covers all the bases: soups, salads and appetizers; meat, poultry and pasta; fish and seafood, and regional specialties such as a selection of three Oaxacan moles. But even those dishes in the continental genre are often presented with local flare.
Particularly noteworthy as starters are the poblano pepper soup with mushrooms, squash blossom and bacon, and hierba santa leaves stuffed with Oaxacan string and goat cheeses in a green tomato and mecco chili sauce. The salads range from the traditional to the unique (jícama, sunflower seeds, toasted almonds, wheat quenelle, fried hibiscus flowers and fresh cheese with hibiscus dressing). The staff is extremely accommodating in terms of sensitivity to those with dietary restrictions or a purist palate. For example, at our most recent evening out, chef Juan Carlos was happy to comply with my wife’s request for a simple small green salad.
.
The seared tuna with mango and habanero sauce, alongside white beans in coconut milk is prepared to perfection, with the flavor of each ingredient easily discernable. The sliced duck and fresh fig is served on a bed of julienne of zucchini “spaghetti,” smothered with a dark purée of honey-fig. And beef lovers are able to experiment with the non-traditional, be it a rib eye served with guacamole and creamy garlic-stuffed chili, or go for something more Oaxacan, steak marinated with mezcal, pineapple and apple, served with garlic purée stuffed chilito.
All of the after-dinner non-alcoholic hot beverages are available high-test, or decaffeinated, so extend your evening without concern, perhaps concluding with a martini glass brimming with a selection of three tropical fruit sorbets.
Also noteworthy: La Catrina has developed a dedicated breakfast and lunch crowd, often comprised of predominantly local residents. Coffee or tea is suggested upon arrival, with warm, freshly baked breads and an assortment of sweet rolls for the asking. Dishes include an assortment of eggs and omelets, traditional Oaxacan breakfast fare such as enchiladas, tamales, chilaquiles and typical Oaxacan grilled meats with garnishes, both unique and traditional salads, and sandwiches featuring spinach, goat cheese, pecan, apple, basil, mushroom and squash blossom.
La Catrina de Alcalá (www.casacatrina.com.mx). M. Alcalá 102, a couple of blocks north of the zócalo. Oaxacan cuisine with an international flare. Locals and tourists.








